Vertical garden with integrated worm farm

Via the Front Range Permaculture Institute, I came across this post about the Urb Garden (there’s a gallery of photos of it too).  From the Australian Design Award Site (where I think the Urb Garden pictures were first published):

Currently available products tend to address one set of issues faced by urban gardeners- space or compost or water conservation, however, there is not one product that addresses all three. The Urb Garden addresses space, water conservation and organic composting, whilst providing enough nutrients, water and access to light, making it invaluable to urban food gardener.

Very cool idea.  It looks like the main purpose of the worms is to produce compost tea, which then drip down through the garden.  I’d be interested to see one of these in action, as it seems the parts could get out of whack pretty easily (stinky worms, not enough fertilizer for the plants, etc).  It’s nice to see an integrated system, though.

1 comment February 22nd, 2010

Holiday worms?

This article, from Boulder Organic, mentions giving worms for the holidays:

Downing says ellie’s also carries worm-composting bins that are about 14 inches square and two feet high. They range from $75 to $85.

The worms must be purchased separately, she says, but you can complement the gift with a copy of the book Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary Appelhof for $12.95.

This seems like an alright idea, but for maximum success of a worm bin, I feel it’d be better to wait until spring to give this gift.  Then it’s more likely to have a happy place in a ‘in-between space’ like a garage or a basement.  Also, one won’t be as tempted to overfeed it, since there’ll be a compost pile for organic waste (or at least, the weather will be better for creating one).

What do you think?

Add comment December 16th, 2009

Orange peels in worm bins?

I like to put all my organic waste in my worm bin.  However, during the winter, I like to load up on citrus, and in particular orange peels.  In “Worms Eat My Garbage”, Mary Appelhof says that orange peels can be put in worm bins.  I have often put peels in my bin, but a few years ago, I overloaded a bin with too many peels.

So, what to do with orange peels, especially large amounts of them (mmm, clementines!)?

Recently, a discussion thread on this very subject occurred on the_worm_bin.   sesealrcd said orange peels “are very anti bacterial”.  I looked for any evidence of that, and found some references on alternative medicine websites, but nothing I would consider conclusive.  From personal experience, I have seen orange peels take longer to rot than other foods.

Nan just “cut[s] them up fine then just throw[s] them on top and they break down into the soil” near her roses.  Connie adds them to some big bins with lots of other food, and doesn’t put them in very often–every 10 days or so.  Students in Davis CA also put orange peels in their worm bins.  Sherry chops up her rinds in a food processor and adds them as well.

If you don’t want to put peels in your worm bin, Rob suggested killing ants by “soaking pieces of peel in a recycled gallon jug then drench the ant hill.” I found a page referencing an experiment with citrus oils and fire ants, in which “[i]n most trials, the level of activity in mounds receiving citrus oil alternatives was statistically comparable to conventional diazinon formulations”.  I also have personally just saved dried orange peels and given them to a friend who used them to make soap and potpourri.

As always, experiment.  There are a number of other ways to use peels, and it looks like adding some to your bin, and then monitoring worm health, is a viable option.

1 comment December 4th, 2009

Preparing your worm bin for the winter

Winter is coming, at least in the northern hemisphere, and that means that you need to spend some time thinking about your worm bin.  I had a reader (Linda, my future mother in law) as about this.

Now, if your worm bin is inside, the only thing you need to do is make sure it can handle your food waste.  If you have been splitting your feeding between an outside and inside worm bin, or an inside bin and a compost pile, then the inside worm bin probably doesn’t have the population to handle all your waste.  Up the feeding slowly, and throw some of your food waste away.

If, like me, you have an outside worm bin, then you will want to do a couple of things.

  1. Clear out some of the vermicompost and castings.  This is the perfect time to do so (or, maybe last month was).  Your worms have been working hard all summer, and you’ve probably had the chance to give them a lot of food.  You might have been so busy enjoying the summer that you let them fill up their bin.  I took out about 18 gallons of worm castings and vermicompost (and I’m sure, a few worms and cocoons) from my worm bin, and put it in my garden for next summer.  This will open up space for you to feed the worms for the winter.
  2. Make sure the worms have the ability to ‘go to ground’.  If your compost bin is in contact with the ground, the worms can retreat into the ground if the bin starts to get cold.  This is good advice for the summer as well.  If you have an independent bin, you can bury it in the ground a bit.  If you have your worm bins on a balcony, you might want to bring them inside, at least on any nights where it is going to be freezing for a long period of time.
  3. Make sure you can still feed your worms.  Your worms can last for weeks without food, but not months.  Also, the composting of the food can provide some warmth to counter balance the cold.
  4. You can provide them insulation (here’s an example of using straw to insulate against the Canadian winter), but make sure you can get in and feed them at least once every couple of weeks.  I insulate them by making sure plenty of leaves are on top of their food.  (Fall is also a great time to pick up leaves to provide bedding for your worms all next year.)

That said, I live in Boulder, Colorado, where we have some cold weeks and some warm weeks every winter.  (We’re USDA zone 5.)  And by warm, I mean ‘above freezing’.  If you live in zone 8 or zone 9, you probably don’t have to worry at all.  And if you live in zone 1 or 2 and want to keep worms outside, I’d suggest heavy insulation, or moving them to the garage.

2 comments November 5th, 2009

Myco-vermicomposting article

The Mad Bioneer, over in Arizona, has a fascinating post on combining vermicomposting with mycoculture, or the raising of mushrooms.  I’ve raised mushrooms briefly, but only for food, not for composting purposes.  It looks liek worms and mushrooms complement each other, at least when your primary material is wood chips.  The mushrooms can break down the wood chips, and the worms can eat what’s broken down, as well as the mycelium (mushroom ‘roots’).

He also shares lessons.  He talks about what you can expect in terms of mushroom production:

The worms will reduce the number of mushrooms you get from the wood chips by at least half. I don’t think they can really get into the log to steal from there. They eat the mycelium, weakening the mycelium and reducing its ability to produce mushrooms. So if you are doing it for mushroom production, have more of a two-bin system. Let the mushrooms grow alone on the wood chips first, then let the worms have a crack at it to finish it off. If you try the worms first and then the mycelium, the worms get a lovely snack and you get no mushrooms at all. I tried inoculating a worm bin with some mushroom spawn that I didn’t really have plans for. I came back a few days later to see if it had taken off and it was completely gone. The worms had eaten it.

Watch out for those red wigglers!  They eat everything.

And also about what he thinks the soil nutrition content is for the broken down wood chips (not too balanced):

Lately some of my plants in the compost have been kind of pathetic looking. I think it might be due to the nutrient content of the soil. After all, it was made from pure wood chips. I haven’t had a chance to test the soil, but my guess is that it is a little low in nitrogen at least and possibly potassium and phosphorus. I would recommend the addition of a good organic rock-based fertilizer regularly with the various layers of organic matter that you add. The rock-based fertilizer, such as greensand for potassium and rock phosphate for phosphorus, will have more staying power in the soil than the quick-fix type fertilizers. I don’t know of a rock-based source of nitrogen, so I use blood meal. They will also be good for the mushrooms that you get in there, as they are used to breaking down rock for minerals. A little sand or pea gravel in the layers might also be good to help out the soil structure. Of course, ignore this if you are composting in one place and using the compost elsewhere.

This makes sense.  The redworms can turn nutrients into different, more accessible forms, but, as I mention in my post about sending my worm castings to a soil lab, the chemical contents of your bin depend on what you put into it.   Earthworms aren’t alchemists!

Regardless, this sounds like an adventure in composting.  Definitely read the whole article.  I also enjoyed one of his other articles about mycorrhizal fungus.

Add comment October 26th, 2009

Upcoming composting workshop with John Anderson on Nov 7

From the Broomfield Enterprise:

John “The Worm Man” Anderson, an expert in the art of vermicomposting, will present a workshop on the basics of using worms to compost kitchen and yard waste from 9 to 11 a.m. Saturday, Nov. 7, in the Lakeshore Room of the Broomfield Community Center at 280 Lamar St. Cost: $10. Sponsored by Broomfield master gardeners. Registration required: 720-887-2286.

Here’s all their upcoming events.

Add comment October 19th, 2009

Composting with Red Wiggler workshop in Frisco

Via an article in the Summit Daily News about getting your garden ready for winter (summers are short up in Summit County!), I found out about a vermicomposting workshop happening up there.

If you want to learn more about composting with worms, attend the Conservation Center’s Compost Tea and Vermicomposting Workshop Sept. 16 from 5:30 to 7:30 at our office in Frisco. The workshop is $10 and you can pre-register by calling 668-5703.

The full article has more steps to take as your garden winds down this year.  Here in Boulder, we have a few more weeks until our average first frost.

Add comment September 11th, 2009

One year on

This is the one year anniversary of Boulder Vermicomposting!  My first post, “How I got started with worms” was published one year ago today.

In between then and now, there have been over 60 posts, ranging from short to long, picture heavy to text only. If you look on the right hand side of the blog, under ‘Archives’, you can see every month I’ve published something.  My commitment to myself was to publish something at least every 10 days, and I believe I’ve kept to that.

And that’s not all.  I’ve learned tons about keeping redworms in the course of this blog.  I created an Amazon store focused on redworm stuff (that I’m slowly working on), had over 8000 views, had over 40 comments published on my blog (some were from me), sent out an email newsletter every month since January 2009, and created a worm weight calculator.

In general, I’ve had a ball.

Thanks for reading!

2 comments August 16th, 2009

Interview: Oak leaves, getting started, prosyletizing, and aims for their bin

This is the final part of my interview with Linda and Mark, home worm keepers. Part 1 is here, and part 2 is here.

M: So, Dan, what’s your educated eye tell you about our worm box?

D: I think your worms are doing fantastic. I love the shredded newspapers bedding. I guess you guys have a regular office shredder you put your stuff through?

M: Yes.

D: Is [the box] insulated on the bottom?

M: No, there is no insulation on the bottom.

D: It was kind of a worry, right?

M: It’s a compromise, right? You have to have ventilation but at the same time I didn’t want it to turn into Swiss cheese having holes all around we wouldn’t have a prayer of keeping it warm other than moving it indoors. I think, with this setup, the way it sits right now, we should be good for about 8 months out of the year. In other words, November, December, January, February, and sometime in March, probably go back outside, because usually by March were done with the sub-zero.

L: And, I’m considering maybe putting bales of hay around it or moving onto plastic. If we don’t we need to get something to catch the worm juice that comes out of the bottom. It just goes down there now.

D: It didn’t stain your deck, or anything, it looks like.

M: Well it sat there from day one.

D: The only thing I would say is I would have the whole thing covered with bedding, I wouldn’t have any food on top. And when the leaves fall [you'll have a] source of like a ton of bedding. It might keep the smell down a little bit. I think that’s more of a difference of opinion, and like you said, if you guys aren’t bothered by this right now. I guess that’s kind of what the carpet serves.

L: In general, I think part of the smell is because by the time we get [the food scraps] out there [they are nasty]. We should rinse [the compost keeper] out.

M: Its fermenting.

D: Yea, well plenty of anaerobic activity happening, right?

L: In general, this box hasn’t really smelled anything other than earthy.

D: Even now it doesn’t smell. I mean it smells a little bit funky because you stirred it all up.

M: The nice thing about the carpet is that its [covering the smell].

L: And I usually do cover it. It’s just that they have eaten it down so much lately, they‘ve eaten it all away so now I need to start saving papers again

M: But fortunately, as Dan pointed out, fall is coming and we are getting a lot of leaves. There’s an Oak tree in the front yard…. Those leaves are bigger than my hand and there brown and so I could see us laying down a nice [layer] of oak leaves

L: Yea, that was my plan. Well actually I’ve read if you have the insulation in the winter you want it filled up to the top.

D: Oh, interesting. So there’s no dead space. No air.

L: I don’t know, it just said to fill the bedding. I just recently read that.

M: Well it is interesting because air is an excellent insulator if it’s still. That’s the trick – it you can keep it still it’s a wonderful insulator. If you can’t then maybe having something like an oak leaf, which I don’t know what the heat transfer coefficient is through an oak leaf. Probably less than moving air. So you can go ahead and do that. And I’m guessing the worms would probably love a few oak leaves

L: Well, they’ll love it but it takes forever, but its really hard to break down. I have given them oak leaves before. They do love them. They have access to maple leaves and then the apple leaves. We’ll probably mix them up

D: You said you wanted to experiment with this one. Are you going to have something in reserve? Would you just experiment in terms of just leave them out over the winter and see if they survive?

L: Well that was my plan and maybe start an additional bin. We haven’t decided if we are going to bring this one in or start a second one. How do yours work out?

D: They survived last winter just fine. Although maybe that’s why they aren’t as happy as yours is I take much less care of them than you guys do, I think. I don’t harvest them. I pull out casting compost when I want but I don’t do anything else to make an excellent environment for them. I haven’t really put in much bedding; I put in leaves but that’s about it.

M: So, we could probably slack off, a little bit, on our worm care taking duties and still have reasonable compost .

D: I think you could, yea. I think you guys right now are maximizing probably the amount of compost you’re going to get.

L: I really like the idea. I really want to have the maximum amount of compost because it does go quickly. There’s a big yard.

M: In addition to putting it in a garden, Linda went around our house and she gave our houseplants some samples. They seem to enjoy it.

L: So, yes at this point normally I would have a cover [layer of bedding in the bin]. Normally this would be covered with another layer.

D: Because I’ve read that some people throw all the food that there going to put in the worm bin in the freezer because it kills flies and after it defrosts easier for the worms to eat but you guys just throw it in there; and cover it up.

M: Cover it up; [the keeper has a] charcoal filter; cap and that’s it. Yea, there’s no freezing of it and this is the end result.

Food scraps bucket

Food scraps bucket

L: Can you explain that again?

D: Now I haven’t done it myself but they say they have something like your gallon container in the freezer they just throw stuff in there; it freezes and kills any fruit flies or other kinds of bugs that might be in there.

L: That’s a great idea for the summer – fruit flies are a problem.

D: Yea, let me know how it goes. What have you found most of your knowledge from? Just experimenting or have you read books? Or, have you called John and asked some questions?

L: Not yet. I thought about it.

D: What books have you read that you found were useful?

L: I’ve just read our handout and then the “Worms eat my garbage.”

D: That’s the little book by Mary Applehoff?

L: Yeah. I just recently read that though. So I would say I read 2 handouts, the one from John and the other one from our class. And that’s how I got started. We used John’s handout as a guideline to build the bin. And I did do some searches; Google searches.

D: Overall it’s been a positive experience, it sounds like? You’re super happy with it?

L: Oh yea, super happy. I’d like to get my kid’s daycare to start doing a worm bin.

D: Yea, you think that’s a possibility?

L: I think it would be because they just recently started a compost for all of their paper. There was someone I spoke to about it; they were super excited. They are not presently working there anymore; they’re on leave. So, I need to bring it up again.

D: If I was interested in introducing worm composting into a club I’m a member of or anything like that, how are you going about doing that? Are you saying I will provide the worms; I will provide the expertise or are you saying you guys should do this or, I mean, how are you approaching that?

L: I haven’t approached it yet.

D: How are you thinking about approaching it?

L: I would probably provide the worms and expertise.

D: OK, and expect them to provide the box and maintain the box after you taught them.

L: Yea, I would be willing to check on it.

D: Sure, add one more worm box to check on, that’s cool.

L: Yea, I would babysit them for 6 months.

D: OK. What’s the weirdest thing you’ve put it here, do you think? Has it pretty much all been pretty standard stuff you get out of the grocery? Have you put in any cuttings from other plants around your garden or anything that sticks out in your mind; jeans like John did?

L: I did throw some jeans in, or cloth. I’m trying to remember. It was with the first batch. And, I think what I found is that it was whatever I threw away it must have been partially synthetic because it wasn’t eaten and I had to remove it. Maybe it was some kind of a bag. That was the weirdest thing I’ve put in so far. I considered putting in my daughter’s leather shoes.

D: Oh, that’s interesting.

L: It was just last night. I’m like “should we throw these in to the worm bin?”

D: Because she is done with the shoes.

L: There are some little holes in them.

D: Interesting, wow! You should; it would be interesting to see how long it would take. That is natural fibers, right. Bury it at the bottom and see how long it lasts. What advice you would give to anybody who is thinking about doing one of these? You guys did not start small; this is a very large bin. It was quite a bit of commitment. How much money was it to build this?

L: Scrap wood and then a $3 plank from Resource 2000.

D: So it wasn’t a ton of money.

L: We even had the insulation.

M: It was a half day of mine on my chop saw.

D: Still, this is not starting small. You are definitely jumping in with both feet; would you advise that for other people or do you think that based on your experience you might start with a smaller bin or a commercial bin?

L: Everyone that I have spoken to that has a small bin I think they feel somewhat limited; at least the folks that I have spoken with.

D: They are [saying] “I can’t put as much in there as I want; it smells”.

L: And “I can’t feed them all of our kitchen scraps”. So, my goal in this was to [compost all our waste] and I think this worm box will support it as soon as we get enough worms in here and I think it’s getting close. I would like to be able to put 100% of our scraps in here and have them consume it. That would be my goal. My recommendation is if you have the motivation and you have someone to build you a box I would say go big. I would call this a medium box; you call this a large box?

D: What’s the square footage of the surface, because that’s the thing that tells you how big it is, right? It’s not so much how deep it is.

M: The square footage of the box is … (measuring) … let’s say it’s 20” x 40”; that would be 800 square inches; … its about 5 square feet.

D: My understanding is that when I was building my first worm bin they said 8 inches is deep enough or 12 inches is deep enough. You can have it deeper, but I think once you get past 3 feet they don’t go down there; they don’t go down below a meter. But, to get back to your original question, I don’t know whether this is big or small. I haven’t seen a ton of worm bins; if it requires 2 people to move it, it seems like it moves more towards the bigger size. As you’ve said you have found that it doesn’t eat all of your kitchen waste for 3 people. Did you guys say you eat at home a lot?

L: We’ve been eating at home a lot over the last year.

D: Would you say that is 20 meals a week; is that 10 meals a week?

L: We’ve been going out maybe once a week

M: Once a week we go out for dinner. So, if you believe that you have 3 meals a day, which isn’t always the case, that will be 21 meals a week, we probably are good for 15 or 16 meals easy, at home

L: And we often skip one meal. We’ll eat breakfast & dinner or lunch & dinner. But [our daughter] eats; she’ll eat 3 meals a day. I think this box, from everything I’ve read, this box should be able to support all of our scraps. And then it’s just a matter of the worms doubling and doubling and I think we’re getting there. I think we have the most amount of worms that we’ve had.

M: I think there was a little bit of a set back when we actually harvested. They didn’t quite bounce back as much as we thought. But, looking today Dan, this is the best I’ve seen the worms in a while. Easily since end of August, when we came back from our trip on the east coast, because we had that worm compost in that blue cooler there for a long time because we were trying to separate. But, anyway I think they are bouncing back now and so we should be able to give them more food at this point.

L: I have a question, Dan. This one right here which is bigger than the other small ones, is that a baby worm?

D: On this right here? I don’t think so, I think that’s a different type of worm, because you can see those are mites. I bet you it’s a different kind of worm. Small worms I’ve seen look red.

L: OK, because he said in our class these could be white.

D: Well, John obviously has a lot more expertise than I do; the ones I’ve seen that were small were about that size but they had a pointy tip and were red.

L: We have a good variety of other things in here.

D: You have started with what Juliette and I each gave you a quart of vermicompost – not just worms.

L: I look at this and I see they’ve definitely multiplied several times. I guess this is a large box considering we probably started out with just a little tiny amount yea, and it was compost, it wasn’t pure worms.

M: It wasn’t just pure worms.

L: I’m guessing we probably started out with maybe a hundred worms?

D: It’s a thousand worms a pound, roughly. It depends on the size of the worms. So, yea, maybe a couple hundred worms.

L: Yea, that’s what I think. Maybe two hundred worms at the most. There were more worms in this stuff – in your compost than there were in Juliette’s.

D: Sweet!

L: I think she picked through them.

D: What’s the most [time] you guys actually have left the worms without doing anything?

L: I was gone for 3 weeks.

M: During the 3 weeks you were gone, I was gone one of those weeks myself, so nothing happened during that week.

L: These are pretty self containing.

D: Apart from what you said, putting some food in, changing the bedding once in a while, and making sure the initial setup is ok.

L: Occasionally I do add water.

D: Oh really, you watered them?

L: The first load that we did, the first box, I never really had to add water. I almost never added water. But, on this one we’ve had a few drier scraps. The cornhusks are on the drier side.

D: So the food content isn’t as wet.

L: So that’s were I’ve been adding a little bit of water. If the food content is wet then I find I don’t need to.

D: Have you guys experimented with worm tea at all; the compost tea?

L: I haven’t.

M: We pondered about it because it’s a challenge to collect it. I want to try to get some trays, like some old baking trays.

L: Well no, worm tea is when you take the compost out and you let it sit in a pot of water, and then you just use the water.

D: Actually, I did a little research on that because I was confused myself. The stuff that comes out of the worm bin is actually called ‘leachate’ which doesn’t really have any benefit.

L & M: Really!

D: This is what these books that I was reading say.

L: It seems like it would be the same.

D: If you take the castings and put it in water, that’s much more beneficial than the leachate.

L: The couple times I did water it pretty well and it started to pour out, I figured that was worm tea. So, the reason why I haven’t is because, since we have a medium size box it’s been just as easy to use the compost and I figured if you water it each time its going to run through the compost then the plants will end up with the same benefit or greater, so I haven’t done it just out of laziness. However, when I recently read that when you use the compost you can bring things into the house. Have you ever considered that?

D: Of course, makes sense. Because that compost is crawling with other critters, for sure.

L: The stuff I looked at seemed to be fairly inert. After reading that I might [reconsider doing it indoors].

D: This is right out of “Worms can eat my Garbage” but the other thing I’ve read is that you can cook [the castings] or have it in plastic.

L: It seems like that would kill things that you might want.

D: I guess cooking would kill the bacteria as opposed to being in water probably wouldn’t kill the bacteria.

Add comment June 9th, 2009

How many worms do you have?

I was asked by a friend for some worms.  I have previously handed out vermicompost with worms in it to friends for free.  I was considering trying to sell worms, but really had no idea how many I had.

To figure this, out, I filled a tray with vermicompost.  Then I manually separated the worms from the compost, using sunlight and time.  I ended up with a ball of squirmy worms.

I estimated the weight of the worms at 1.5 oz.  Then I measured the cubic volume of vermicompost I had separated, which ended up being 120 cubic inches.  This means that there was one ounce of worms for every 80 cubic inches.

I then measured the height and width of my worm bin.  It is 24 inches by 24 inches.  I then estimated how far I’d seen worms down in the bin.  Redworms typically stay in the first meter (approximately 36 inches) of soil, but I had recently dug out some castings from the bottom and hadn’t seen any worms there.  So I estimated the worms were in the upper 16 inches of the bin.  Multiplying these together gave a volume of 9,216 cubic inches.

Dividing the number of populated cubic inches in the entire worm bin by 80 gave me the number of ounces of worms in the bin, and dividing that by 16 indicated that there were approximately 7 pounds of worms in my bin.  Given I started with one pound two years ago, that is quite a return on investment (especially given that all the materials I’ve added to the bin were free).

Caveats: if I were serious about this, I would pull and harvest multiple samples, as that is the key calculation.  The above assumes that worms were distributed throughout the bin in the same manner as they were in the sample.

But, hey, it was fun to figure out–I was surprised!

Add comment June 1st, 2009

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