I like to put all my organic waste in my worm bin. However, during the winter, I like to load up on citrus, and in particular orange peels. In “Worms Eat My Garbage”, Mary Appelhof says that orange peels can be put in worm bins. I have often put peels in my bin, but a few years ago, I overloaded a bin with too many peels.
So, what to do with orange peels, especially large amounts of them (mmm, clementines!)?
Recently, a discussion thread on this very subject occurred on the_worm_bin. sesealrcd said orange peels “are very anti bacterial”. I looked for any evidence of that, and found some references on alternative medicine websites, but nothing I would consider conclusive. From personal experience, I have seen orange peels take longer to rot than other foods.
Nan just “cut[s] them up fine then just throw[s] them on top and they break down into the soil” near her roses. Connie adds them to some big bins with lots of other food, and doesn’t put them in very often–every 10 days or so. Students in Davis CA also put orange peels in their worm bins. Sherry chops up her rinds in a food processor and adds them as well.
If you don’t want to put peels in your worm bin, Rob suggested killing ants by “soaking pieces of peel in a recycled gallon jug then drench the ant hill.” I found a page referencing an experiment with citrus oils and fire ants, in which “[i]n most trials, the level of activity in mounds receiving citrus oil alternatives was statistically comparable to conventional diazinon formulations”. I also have personally just saved dried orange peels and given them to a friend who used them to make soap and potpourri.
As always, experiment. There are a number of other ways to use peels, and it looks like adding some to your bin, and then monitoring worm health, is a viable option.
December 4th, 2009
On the_worm_bin, someone posted about using silage for worm food–does it make sense?
First, what is silage? Silage is a fermented grain, usually (always?) corn, that is often used to feed animals over the winter. The fermentation process preserves the nutrition for longer than fresh corn would keep. However, silage will not keep forever. For more on silage, see these pages (at the top of Google’s search results): Corn Silage, Silage Fermentation and Preservation,
Someone asked: “Has anyone had experience in feeding their worms silage? I have a dairy operator friend that has some slightly spoiled silage that he is willing to allow me to have.”
There were a variety of answers. Someone suggested experimenting, and putting some on a location that the worms could either migrate towards or away from. In general, this is always a good practice when feeding new kinds of food to worms. They’re smart enough to run from what isn’t good, so give them the opportunity to do so! This advice was seconded by another member.
I found some links of interest. Here’s someone using silage, along with manure and hay, and precomposting it first: “RTS began accepting and actively pre-composting approximately five tons of separated dairy manure solids and off-specification dairy-cow feed (hay and corn silage) per day.”
Here’s an article talking about using silage as bedding: “Fourth grade students helped a parent volunteer build five worm bins, which they set on concrete blocks. To test the effectiveness of different beddings, they placed shredded newspaper in two bins, pulverized cardboard in another, old corn silage in the fourth bin, and composted horse and cow manure in the last bin. Of these beddings, the manure worked best, because red wigglers love manure. Newspaper also made a fine bedding, but dry cardboard was a hassle to handle; when it was moistened, it got too soggy.”
I also made some points about the pH of silage; according to this, it has a pH of 4.3 (although I imagine the pH depends on where the silage is in the fermentation process). Worms like more neutral environments: “Redworms do best if the pH is around 7.0, however, they can tolerate levels from 4.2 to 8.0 or higher. Lime (calcium carbonate) may be mixed with the bedding material to correct acidity or to maintain a more
favorable pH. Pulverized edd shells also correct acidity. (Warning! Use only limestone and never hydrated lime. The wrong kind of lime will kill the worms!)”
Of course, all the links in the world aren’t worth real world experience. Someone else said: “When I use silage as feed for my goats, the upper portion of my silage drums are mostly spoiled and these go direct to my wormbins. I have not had any problem with doing that.”
So, in short, it appears that silage can be a worm feedstock. If you are a home worm keeper, this probably isn’t of much interest to you, because if you were offered silage, it probably would be spoiled and would come by the truckload 
. But if you’re in commercial vermicomposting, perhaps you can find a farmer willing to give you free worm food!
September 17th, 2009
Via the Pueblo Chieftain, I found this article about a recycling village planned for 40 acres outside of Pueblo. The folks behind the whole village concept are at the Gaia Institute Wellness Center. Currently, the focus is on composting with redworms. They are being used to compost sewage sludge:
State health officials and the city of Pueblo have given a green light to using sewer sludge as part of the diet of worms.
…
The worms eat through about 2 tons of composted garbage, paper, dirt and sludge in a little more than two weeks…
This part of the project is called ‘Happy Worm Herders’, and they seem to have an informative site (though their ‘vermicomposting basics’ appear to be lifted directly from Wikipedia).
September 8th, 2009
I had the good fortune to interview Melanie Nehls Burow recently. She has been teaching the Basics of Backyard Composting and Worm Composting in Boulder County for 9 years through the County’s Master Composter classes and other compost workshops. For an updated schedule on where and when she is teaching next, or composting questions, contact her at andrewmel at yahoo dot com. She has been worm composting for 7 years. Melanie recently dealt with a setback (more on that below) but is headed back to worm composting full bore.
I like that she shares a couple of tips for dealing with fruit flies, talks about how to deal with John Anderson’s worm buckets (after she raves about the quality of his worms) and keeps her worms in her dining room!
Dan: When did you start worm farming?
Melanie: I started worm composting (I like that term instead of farming, I compost with my worms and do not grow them to sell, etc) with an indoor bin about 7 years ago. We have always lived in an apartment or condo, so it works well for us.
D: How many people does your worm bin support? What percentage of your food waste would you say goes in there?
M: Our worm bin just supports 2 adults, can’t do much more than that. I’d estimate that at least 50% of our food waste goes in there (except for the last few months…see below), but that is a rough estimate.
D: Any factors to worry about in Colorado?
M: Not if you are doing it indoors. I do a bin inside my house and it works great year round. The biggest worry I would say is to get worms grown in Colorado and not mail-ordered from California…I find the Colorado worms do better overall.
D: Where did you get your worms from?
M: John Anderson, the “worm man” in the Fort Collins area. I only buy my worms from him because they are hardy (they live outside year round) and they are used to Colorado and all that means in terms of soil, weather, etc. And he, or a friend, often come to the Boulder area so its easy to hook with him and get them without having to drive up and get them.
D: Cool. I visited his worm farm in April and it is quite a place. Did you buy the 5 gallon bucket? If so, did you separate out the worms from the vermicompost they were in (I realize this was 7 years ago, so no worries if you don’t remember it)?
M: This weekend [this was a few weeks ago], I will be separating the worms out, yes, as I get mine going again (Have them in my bucket from him, ready to go!). I like to spread the contents of the bucket out on a tarp, and do a mix of hand sorting them out and tossing them into the new bin (on top of the newspaper bedding I already put in there). Then, besides the worms, I add back to my bin about 2 inches or so what they were living in, the castings, (to get all the babies, etc, too) The rest of the castings left in the bucket from John is just fabulous worm castings that I will use to make compost tea and use selectively in my garden (again, because its valuable precious stuff).
D: What do you do with your worms/castings/vermicompost?
M: I have used the castings mostly on my garden plot. They are a precious commodity, since not a lot is produced and I have a large garden. I have also used mine to make a compost tea. The worms I have used to start a second bin at work.
D: Have you done any experiments on how worm castings help your garden? Have you noticed how it helps the plants? How much do you put on plants, and how often?
M: I have not done any experiments with this. However, I find that worm castings is the best stuff for plants, better than even regular backyard compost. Since worm bins don’t produce a lot of worm castings, I use mine mostly in the spring and mix it into the soil before I plant. If I get some out when its not that time, I save it for the spring when I’m adding compost to my garden soil or use it to make a compost tea (great to apply anytime to plants!)
D: Any particular challenges to keeping worms?
M: I think the biggest challenges are overfeeding, and this leads to the second challenge, fruitflies. I think because its so easy to toss things in (our’s at home is located about 10 feet from where we are chopping veggies, etc) that there is a tendency to overfeed the worms, plus you start to see food scraps as something valuable that you don’t want to throw away, even if the worms already have enough food. This extra means fresh food is left sitting on top of the pile in the worm bin for a while and so this attracts fruitflies. Easy enough to deal with, but still annoying to have them buzz out at you when you open the lid.
D: so, if you try to avoid over feeding, what do you do with the extra scraps you can’t feed the worms? How much does a week’s worth of scraps weigh? How do you deal with fruitflies?
M: The extra scraps we have put into a ziploc bag (gallon size) in the freezer to add to the compost collection at our garden plot ([at the] community gardens). Also, sometimes, they do just go into the trash (I know, bad!). A week’s scraps are about 4 pounds or so, I’d guess. As for getting rid of fruitflies, we typically just take the bin outside, and open the lid and let most fly out and away. Let the bin sit out, lid off for 10 minutes or so, and that gets rid of most of them. To help avoid the fruitflies, we often nuke in the microwave whatever we are putting in (banana peels, veggie trimmings, whatever) for 1 minutes. That brings it past the fresh point enough that the fruit flies aren’t interested. It just really works.
D: Where is your worm box?
M: In our dining room, on hardwood floor, underneath our antique hutch and just about 2 feet away from our table. It is fun to scare our guests and say “Did you know we have worms in the house?” and point to the box. They often think the worms are going to jump out of there or something at them. Makes for a good opener on educating that they can do worm composting, too.
D: Any pictures of it? What does it look like? Where did you buy it? How big is it?
M: No pictures of it, as I am just getting it going again. My husband kind of went overboard adding things to it and it became too wet and fruitfly-ey even for us. That was several months ago and we are just now getting it going again (I know, bad me!). However, what we are using is a 10 gallon roughneck Rubbermaid tote, bought at McGuckins for $12 or something. It is about 8″ H x 30″ wide x 12″ deep. Has a tight fitting lid. I have drilled the holes in the lid and upper part of side. Wouldn’t buy [a commercial system] as they are expensive (like $100+) and in my experience, these homemade ones just work much better.
D: What do you feed your worms?
M: Mostly fruit & veggie scraps, egg shells. We have found that they don’t like herb trimmings. One time while making pesto, I tried to put the herb stems in the worm bin and by 2 days later, all the worms were on the ceiling of my worm bin (to get away from the herbs). Once I took the herb stems out, they were fine. That is something I love about worms, they will tell you if they don’t like something (by crawling away from it).
D: Raw eggshells, or just egg shells from cooked eggs?
M: I would feed them both kinds, doesn’t matter!
D: Any advice for new worm farmers?
M: Feed your worms gently at the beginning…we are usually enthusiastic to start and we tend to overfeed them right away, which leads to fruitflies, which leads to frustration on your part. Better to underfeed than to overfeed in general.
August 7th, 2009
Via the Durango Telegraph, I found this story about the Durango Compost Co, which details the genesis and progress of the Durango Compost Co, founded by Jennifer Craig. This company is built around vermicomposting:
[Durango Composting Company] offers three main services: household composters and worms; public education; and commercial use and consulting. The Composting Co.’s most visible presence is at the Farmers Market, where Craig sells 35-gallon buckets of compost for $35; “compost tea,” a compost-steeped liquid used as fertilizer and to prevent plant disease; and the “Can-O-Worms” home worm composters. In addition, Craig also gives presentations at local schools and works with businesses, such as Ska Brewing and Cyprus Café, interested in worm composting.
The key to the company’s founding was the partnership with a coffee shop: “[Durango Coffee Company owner Tim Wheeler] would pay Craig to take his grounds off his hands. In exchange, he would get a cut of the profits from the final garden-ready product.”
I love to see business models around vermicomposting operations, as I believe they’re key to making the process really sustainable in the long term. I found no website for the Durango Compost Company and I was unable to find a telephone number, but the contact info for the coffee company is here.
July 2nd, 2009
Boulder Organic, a new publication from the folks at the Boulder Weekly, have a new article about red worm composting, John Anderson, and rescuing a bad compost operation. John is his characteristic, no b.s. self:
“Our prime directive in this culture is to make more food to make more people to sell more shit to,” he says. “The system has to stop designing waste. We design things with waste on purpose because of somebody’s back pocket.”
The article also discusses other important aspects of home wormkeeping, including how to feed and harvest red wigglers, and provides a list of things that can be vermicomposted (one which is slightly different than the one I’ve provided).
June 22nd, 2009
Especially during the winter, food scraps can be a big problem. My redworms are not inside, so I can’t just walk to another room in my bathrobe. Food scraps accumulate at different rates (if I make a fruit salad, quite rapidly; chili, not so much). If I leave the scraps for too long, they produce fruit flies and smells. And since the weather can be bad 6 months of the year here in Boulder, Colorado, I can’t always put the scraps in my bin immediately, as I tend to do during the summer.
I’ve tried a variety of solutions for keeping my food scraps inside until I can move it out to my external worm bin, including:
- having my worm bin inside
- a 5 gallon bucket full of leaves and some vermicompost
- zip lock baggies
Things that I have not tried that I’ve read or heard about include
I don’t like the idea of freezing the scraps because
Below, I outline the system that works for me. I have two or three 1 gallon coffee containers, like this one:
coffee container
I fill one (container A) up with food scraps. Since it is airtight, the smells don’t escape, and you have no flies. It does get pretty funky and moldy in there, depending on what scraps I’m putting in. I’ll put everything in there, including liquids.
When it is full, I take it out and dig a hole in my bin. I empty the container into the bin. If it is really funky, sometimes I’ll fill the container with water and dump that in. I refill the hole with some of the bedding.
Then, I add a bunch of leaves (every fall I grab them from the curb and store them on my patio) for additional carbon content.
As for the container, I’ll leave it outside, and take another one in (container B). I find that leaving them outside on my patio serves a number of purposes:
- dries out any food scraps that stuck to the side of the container
- dissipates any smell
- dries out mold (I don’t know if it kills the mold, though)
I have not had any trouble with animals investigating the containers, though I live in a pretty urban environment. After container B fills and I empty it into the bin, I knock whatever dried scaps remain in container A out into the bin or onto the beds, and take it in with me.
What methods do you use to deal with your food scraps?
April 26th, 2009
I am always looking for feedstock for my worms. While it’s great to feed them all of my food scraps, I also enjoy taking the others’ “trash” out of the wastestream. This is especially true if the waste I’m removing is good for my worms. As a case in point, coffee grounds are a great feedstock: “coffee grounds are excellent, as they are high in N, not greasy or smelly, and are attractive to worms” (link to pdf).
If you don’t drink that much coffee, these grounds typically free from coffee shops. I don’t typically haunt coffee houses, but I’ve walked in and asked at four different shops now, and gotten a positive response. How I got the grounds varied. In one Starbucks, I found a bucket with bags of grounds all wrapped up nice.
-
-
Starbucks coffee grounds
-
-
Starbucks coffee grounds bags
Another Starbucks just gave me a garbage bag full of grounds. I went to a independent coffee shop in the morning. I left a five gallon bucket with my name an number on it and was able to pick up 4.5 gallons of coffee grounds later that day.
The worms haven’t had any trouble with the grounds. As a matter of fact, the grounds disappeared into the worm bedding fairly quickly.
If you’re looking for something else to feed your worms, and have easy access to a coffee shop, consider asking them for their used grounds.
February 17th, 2009
I had the good fortune to interview Dan Matsch, who works at Eco-Cycle here in Boulder. They sell compost tea made from worm castings, and he and I had a great conversation ranging in topic from the benefits of compost tea to his experiences in home worm keeping to where Eco-Cycle gets feedstock for the worms. The entire interview is below.
Dan Moore: What is your position at Eco-Cycle?
Dan Matsch: Manager, Center for Hard-to-Recycle Materials (CHaRM) and Compost Dept.
Moore: How long have you been involved with vermiculture?
Matsch: ~20 years personally and professionally.
Moore: Do you care to elaborate on your 20 years of experience–that’s a long time!
Matsch: Prior to my career at Eco-Cycle I was an organic vegetable farmer for 13 years and always had a variety of vermicomposting projects going, mostly using the castings as part of a potting mix for my greenhouse transplants. And I’ve kept worms for my kitchen scraps at home for many years.
Moore: Are there any special challenges to vermicomposting in the Colorado area, as opposed to other parts of the country? Or is it all pretty much the same?
Matsch: Worms like 70 degrees F, high humidity within their living media and darkness. That doesn’t exactly describe Colorado’s climate, but the worms are native to a large part of North America including Colorado. They can fend for themselves in their native environment, but if you constrain them to a box and expect them to eat and reproduce at a certain level year-round, you have to monitor their habitat very closely. That’s why I always recommend to backyard composters that they use or build a bottomless worm bin that sits on top of – or better yet, is built into the ground. If the worms can escape adverse conditions by burrowing down, their survival and your success as a vermicomposter increases greatly.
Moore: Do you have any advice for small scale worm keepers?
Matsch: Keep them in the ground [as mentioned above].
Moore: Do you still keep worms at home?
Matsch: Yes, we have a 4’x8’ concrete block lined worm bed built into the ground in our back yard that produces about a cubic yard of castings every spring.
Moore: What has been your greatest success?
Matsch: Our Eco-Cycle high-tech compost tea worm farm is very fun, but I think the greatest reward is creating a closed-loop nutrient cycle at home because it’s so tangible. All our organic waste from kitchen scraps to yard waste go to the worms (the yard waste gets ground up first in a shredder). The worms and all the associated organisms break it down into castings, and that becomes the fertilizer for our gardens, which grow most of our food.
Moore: What kind of worms are used to create the compost tea?
Matsch: Eisenia Fetida.
Moore: How many worms?
Matsch: Our capacity is for about 150 lbs.
Moore: Is Eco-Cycle’s compost tea operation profitable?
Matsch: It’s within the realm of Eco-Cycle’s model of ‘cost + 10%’; however, we are doing it to raise awareness that food waste is a liability in the landfill, while a valuable soil amendment when composted or used to make high-value soil amendments like compost tea.
Moore: Where is [the tea] sold?
Matsch: Boulder Farmers’ Market on Saturdays, Eco-Cycle CHaRM on Wednesdays, April through September.
Moore: What kind of equipment is used to house the worms?
Matsch: We have a ‘flow-through worm digester’ that harvests castings from the bottom of their space, and we have a fiberglass worm farm that was originally manufactured by one of those ‘get rich quick growing worms’ scams that actually works quite well.
-
-
Another View of the Eco-Cycle Worm Digester
-
-
Eco-Cycle Worm Digester
-
-
Eco-Cycle Worm Incubator
Moore: What kind of processing is needed to create the tea?
Matsch: Castings from the digester are ready to go with a turn of the harvest wheel; castings from the fiberglass farm must be hand-harvested, then screened, then formed into a cone in bright light to drive remaining worms to the bottom and slowly harvest castings from the sides. The brewing itself is much like brewing a pot of tea, except the water temperature is 70 degrees and the process is 24 hours. A better analogy of what is really happening, though, is a Petri dish: favorable conditions are made for the beneficial soil microbes, already in abundance in worm castings, to reproduce millions of times over in the water culture. So you are literally pouring microbes onto your soil when applying the tea.
Moore: How much tea is produced weekly?
Matsch: Currently we can brew 125 gallons twice a week, though we may expand by next season.
Moore: What are the benefits to the tea?
Matsch: The tea builds the population of beneficial soil microbes once applied. This improves a plant’s ability to uptake nutrients, since nutrients are exchanged by microbes at a plant’s root hairs. So with more microbes in the soil, more nutrients are exchanged with the root hairs.
Moore: Are you aware of any scientific studies testing the benefits?
Matsch: As with most organic soil amendments, funds for studies through land grant universities are very limited. The previous statement about the benefits is simple logic but has been confirmed at a basic level by Dr. Clive Edwards and his colleagues at Ohio State University. Beyond that, most studies I’ve read focus on whether tea can function effectively against various common plant diseases. Steve Scheuerell and Walter Mahaffee of Oregon State University conducted a literature review in 2002 called, “Compost Tea: Principles and Prospects for Plant Disease Control” which is widely quoted. They have since published several other reports.
As with compost, though, I think it’s difficult to understand what is happening with compost tea through the scientific method of reduction. Tea is not a fungicide. It works in several ways to outcompete leaf-borne disease organisms for food or space on the leaf surface, and it works to bolster a plant immune system. Like studies done on holistic medicine, applying scientific technique to the study of a specific disease creates many variables and therefore variable results. It’s like the old story about 10 different people getting drastically different results examining parts of an elephant in the dark.
Our own greenhouse trials have focused on how compost tea affects seedling plant growth. Control and test are always comparable until some kind of stress is introduced. Then it is quite clear that the test plants have a stronger immune system that powers through the stress with less – if any – check in growth.
Moore: What happens to the vermicompost after tea is made?
Matsch: It is still inoculated with soil microbes, so we let excess moisture evaporate for a week or so, aerate it, and mix it with worm food the next time we feed.
Moore: I’m curious about that, as it seems you’d just accumulate more and more vermicompost/castings, and eventually you’d need to clean out the digester and worm farm. Eventually, you end up with a mass of castings, don’t you? What happens to that?
Matsch: The baskets that hold the castings in the brewer are about 1/3 full after the tea is brewed, so a majority of the castings dissolve into the tea. Eventually we will produce a surplus of castings as the worm population maximizes, but both our worm farms get harvested pretty heavily during tea season and the boxes don’t have a lot in them by fall.
Moore: How much waste goes into the process?
Matsch: Theoretically the worms should be able to process half their weight daily. In reality, they are eating about 250 lbs per week.
Moore: What type of waste is it?
Matsch: Half food waste, half crushed dried leaves by volume. For the most part, it is organic vegetable kitchen scrap, but we give the worms a mixed diet. They have had a lot of apples this fall from a program in Boulder that picks up fallen apples from people’s yards to try to mitigate their attractiveness to bears.
Moore: How is waste collected, and from where?
Matsch: I either cherry pick from some of our Zero Waste Services restaurant or grocery store customers, or from material brought to our food waste drop-off at the CHaRM. We have some people bringing clean vegetative food waste specifically for the worms now…they may need their own collection dumpster soon!
Moore: What is the long term sustainability of people driving to drop food off for the ecocycle worm composters? Where does home vermicomposting fit into this picture (if at all)?
Matsch: Backyard composting is by far the most efficient way to handle organic waste – meaning kitchen and yard waste – and I strongly believe that worm composting is the best fit for the vast majority of people who want to backyard compost. Curbside collection of organics for commercial composting is the second-most efficient. The City of Boulder is slowly rolling that out for their residents, it’s an option for unincorporated county residents, and Eco-Cycle has collections for our commercial customers. But that doesn’t cover everybody, and not everybody can backyard compost. So a variety of solutions is necessary to keep organics out of the landfill.
December 21st, 2008
The answer is ‘yes, but.’ I’ve put a variety of meat in my bin a number of times. The type of meats I’ve put in include raw fat I’ve cut from pork chops, uncooked off ribs, cooked chicken skin, gristle and bones, and an entire set of turkey bones from Thanksgiving (after I’d made soup from them, of course).
There are a number of items to consider when putting meat in your worm bin.
- Is your bin secure from animals (fox/rats/raccoons/bears) that might be attracted to rotting meat?
- Do you have enough volume in your bin that the meat can rest undisturbed for weeks?
- Will bones in vermicompost be OK?
- Are you willing to take some risk of pathogen transmission if you place vermicompost or castings on food crops?
If the answer to all of the above is ‘yes’, then you can definitely bury meat in your bin. I like to dig it in at least twice as deep as I bury vegetable wastes. This way I’m less likely to encounter it when adding other waste. If I’m digging in my bin and start to smell something foul, I just cover it with some bedding and try someplace else. I’m not sure about the pathogen transmission (I probably should submit some castings to a microbiology lab for more information). If I was using this vermicompost for a lot of food production, I would also be concerned about possible pathogen transmission (I do use my vermicompost directly on food plants, but not all that often).
I asked the question of the_worm_bin and got back much the same information as I’d discovered through trial and error. One response cautioned against putting meat in an indoor bin due to the smell, and another cautioned against putting too much meat (or any uncooked meat). I did some searching on protein poisoning (which applies in general to too much protein, whether or not that protein comes from meat) and found this information:
This “disease” is actually the result of too much protein in the bedding. This happens when the worms are overfed. Protein builds up in the bedding and produces acids and gases as it decays (Gaddie, op. cit.). According to Ruth Myers (1969): “when you see a worm with a swollen clitellum or see one crawling aimlessly around on top of the bedding, you can just bet on sour crop and act accordingly, but fast”. Her recommended solution is a “massive dose of one of the mycins, such as farmers give to chicken or cattle”. Farmers wishing to avoid these or similar antibiotics should work to prevent sour crop by not overfeeding and by monitoring and adjusting pH on a regular basis. Keeping the pH at neutral or above will preclude the need for these measures.
To sum up, meat can be added to worm bins, but it is not a no brainer like most vegetable waste is. You need to consider how much meat you’ve added and what protections the worms have from outside predators, as well as smells and bones in vermicompost.
November 22nd, 2008
Previous Posts
