Chicken Chart for redworms

One of the techniques I learned in my permaculture class is the “chicken chart”. This is basically of a list of the inputs (needs) and outputs (products) of a component in a system. If you can match up the outputs of one system with the inputs of another, you end up doing less work; the systems support themselves.

Here’s my chicken chart for redworms.

Inputs

  • controlled temperature
  • food (nitrogen source)
  • protection from predators
  • moisture
  • bedding (carbon source)
  • harvesting effort
  • grit
  • oxygen
  • other beasties (bacteria to break down food)

Here’s the outputs worms give

  • castings
  • surplus worms
  • vermicompost
  • educational opportunity
  • soil
  • carbon dioxide

Did I miss anything?  Is there more that we need to give redworms, or that they can give us?

4 comments January 18th, 2009

Interview: Commercial Compost Tea Production

I had the good fortune to interview Dan Matsch, who works at Eco-Cycle here in Boulder.  They sell compost tea made from worm castings, and he and I had a great conversation ranging in topic from the benefits of compost tea to his experiences in home worm keeping to where Eco-Cycle gets feedstock for the worms.  The entire interview is below.

Dan Moore: What is your position at Eco-Cycle?

Dan Matsch: Manager, Center for Hard-to-Recycle Materials (CHaRM) and Compost Dept.

Moore: How long have you been involved with vermiculture?

Matsch: ~20 years personally and professionally.

Moore: Do you care to elaborate on your 20 years of experience–that’s a long time!

Matsch: Prior to my career at Eco-Cycle I was an organic vegetable farmer for 13 years and always had a variety of vermicomposting projects going, mostly using the castings as part of a potting mix for my greenhouse transplants.  And I’ve kept worms for my kitchen scraps at home for many years.

Moore: Are there any special challenges to vermicomposting in the Colorado area, as opposed to other parts of the country?  Or is it all pretty much the same?

Matsch: Worms like 70 degrees F, high humidity within their living media and darkness.  That doesn’t exactly describe Colorado’s climate, but the worms are native to a large part of North America including Colorado.  They can fend for themselves in their native environment, but if you constrain them to a box and expect them to eat and reproduce at a certain level year-round, you have to monitor their habitat very closely.  That’s why I always recommend to backyard composters that they use or build a bottomless worm bin that sits on top of – or better yet, is built into the ground.  If the worms can escape adverse conditions by burrowing down, their survival and your success as a vermicomposter increases greatly.

Moore: Do you have any advice for small scale worm keepers?

Matsch: Keep them in the ground [as mentioned above].

Moore: Do you still keep worms at home?

Matsch: Yes, we have a 4’x8’ concrete block lined worm bed built into the ground in our back yard that produces about a cubic yard of castings every spring.

Moore: What has been your greatest success?

Matsch: Our Eco-Cycle high-tech compost tea worm farm is very fun, but I think the greatest reward is creating a closed-loop nutrient cycle at home because it’s so tangible.  All our organic waste from kitchen scraps to yard waste go to the worms (the yard waste gets ground up first in a shredder).  The worms and all the associated organisms break it down into castings, and that becomes the fertilizer for our gardens, which grow most of our food.

Moore: What kind of worms are used to create the compost tea?

Matsch: Eisenia Fetida.

Moore: How many worms?

Matsch: Our capacity is for about 150 lbs.

Moore: Is Eco-Cycle’s compost tea operation profitable?

Matsch: It’s within the realm of Eco-Cycle’s model of ‘cost + 10%’; however, we are doing it to raise awareness that food waste is a liability in the landfill, while a valuable soil amendment when composted or used to make high-value soil amendments like compost tea.

Moore: Where is [the tea] sold?

Matsch: Boulder Farmers’ Market on Saturdays, Eco-Cycle CHaRM on Wednesdays, April through September.

Moore: What kind of equipment is used to house the worms?

Matsch: We have a ‘flow-through worm digester’ that harvests castings from the bottom of their space, and we have a fiberglass  worm farm that was originally manufactured by one of those ‘get rich quick growing worms’ scams that actually works quite well.

Moore: What kind of processing is needed to create the tea?

Matsch: Castings from the digester are ready to go with a turn of the harvest wheel; castings from the fiberglass farm must be hand-harvested, then screened, then formed into a cone in bright light to drive remaining worms to the bottom and slowly harvest castings from the sides.  The brewing itself is much like brewing a pot of tea, except the water temperature is 70 degrees and the process is 24 hours.  A better analogy of what is really happening, though, is a Petri dish:  favorable conditions are made for the beneficial soil microbes, already in abundance in worm castings, to reproduce millions of times over in the water culture.  So you are literally pouring microbes onto your soil when applying the tea.

Moore: How much tea is produced weekly?

Matsch: Currently we can brew 125 gallons twice a week, though we may expand by next season.

Moore: What are the benefits to the tea?

Matsch: The tea builds the population of beneficial soil microbes once applied.  This improves a plant’s ability to uptake nutrients, since nutrients are exchanged by microbes at a plant’s root hairs.  So with more microbes in the soil, more nutrients are exchanged with the root hairs.

Moore: Are you aware of any scientific studies testing the benefits?

Matsch: As with most organic soil amendments, funds for studies through land grant universities are very limited.  The previous statement about the benefits is simple logic but has been confirmed at a basic level by Dr. Clive Edwards and his colleagues at Ohio State University.  Beyond that, most studies I’ve read focus on whether tea can function effectively against various common plant diseases.  Steve Scheuerell and Walter Mahaffee of Oregon State University conducted a literature review in 2002 called, “Compost Tea:  Principles and Prospects for Plant Disease Control” which is widely quoted.  They have since published several other reports.

As with compost, though, I think it’s difficult to understand what is happening with compost tea through the scientific method of reduction.  Tea is not a fungicide.  It works in several ways to outcompete leaf-borne disease organisms for food or space on the leaf surface, and it works to bolster a plant immune system.  Like studies done on holistic medicine, applying scientific technique to the study of a specific disease creates many variables and therefore variable results.  It’s like the old story about 10 different people getting drastically different results examining parts of an elephant in the dark.

Our own greenhouse trials have focused on how compost tea affects seedling plant growth.  Control and test are always comparable until some kind of stress is introduced.  Then it is quite clear that the test plants have a stronger immune system that powers through the stress with less – if any – check in growth.

Moore: What happens to the vermicompost after tea is made?

Matsch: It is still inoculated with soil microbes, so we let excess moisture evaporate for a week or so, aerate it, and mix it with worm food the next time we feed.

Moore: I’m curious about that, as it seems you’d just accumulate more and more vermicompost/castings, and eventually you’d need to clean out the digester and worm farm.  Eventually, you end up with a mass of castings, don’t you?  What happens to that?

Matsch: The baskets that hold the castings in the brewer are about 1/3 full after the tea is brewed, so a majority of the castings dissolve into the tea.  Eventually we will produce a surplus of castings as the worm population maximizes, but both our worm farms get harvested pretty heavily during tea season and the boxes don’t have a lot in them by fall.

Moore: How much waste goes into the process?

Matsch: Theoretically the worms should be able to process half their weight daily.  In reality, they are eating about 250 lbs per week.

Moore: What type of waste is it?

Matsch: Half food waste, half crushed dried leaves by volume.  For the most part, it is organic vegetable kitchen scrap, but we give the worms a mixed diet.  They have had a lot of apples this fall from a program in Boulder that picks up fallen apples from people’s yards to try to mitigate their attractiveness to bears.

Moore: How is waste collected, and from where?

Matsch: I either cherry pick from some of our Zero Waste Services restaurant or grocery store customers, or from material brought to our food waste drop-off at the CHaRM.  We have some people bringing clean vegetative food waste specifically for the worms now…they may need their own collection dumpster soon!

Moore: What is the long term sustainability of people driving to drop food off for the ecocycle worm composters?  Where does home vermicomposting fit into this picture (if at all)?

Matsch: Backyard composting is by far the most efficient way to handle organic waste – meaning kitchen and yard waste – and I strongly believe that worm composting is the best fit for the vast majority of people who want to backyard compost.  Curbside collection of organics for commercial composting is the second-most efficient.  The City of Boulder is slowly rolling that out for their residents, it’s an option for unincorporated county residents, and Eco-Cycle has collections for our commercial customers.  But that doesn’t cover everybody, and not everybody can backyard compost.  So a variety of solutions is necessary to keep organics out of the landfill.

8 comments December 21st, 2008

Vermiculture Workshop in Boulder Next Week

Updated: Here’s the website announcement of this workshop.

Transition Boulder County is having a vermiculture workshop next week. From emails (I couldn’t find an announcment on the web):

  • Cost: $25 (includes worms)
  • Where: 4500 19th Street in the Boulder Meadows Community Room.
  • When: Nov 13th, 7-9 pm.
  • RSVP: Call 303-494-1521, or email alice@transitionbouldercounty.org.

Full Description:

VermicompostingWinter is coming and your hot compost pile will soon be slowing down. Hit the ground running by participating in this hands-on workshop, building your own worm bin from scratch. Learn the many benefits of indoor composting with worms.

At the end of the evening, you will have everything you need (including a supply of worms) to begin composting your kitchen scraps and turning them into rich, loamy amendment for your spring garden and potted plants.

Please register early, as class size is limited! Registration $25. Call 303-494-1521, or email alice@transitionbouldercounty.org.

Add comment November 8th, 2008

Things I've put in my worm bin

I’ve seen and heard many lists of what to put in your worm bin and what not to. Location of the bin and its accessibility to wild things are good things to keep in mind. As always, experimentation is a good idea–try one chicken bone before you put the Thanksgiving remnants in. Here are some things I’ve put in my worm bin:

  • chicken bones
  • citrus peels
  • egg shells and yolks
  • off meat
  • newspapers
  • bunches of bad greens
  • whole foods salad boxes
  • human urine
  • used kleenex
  • torn up credit card receipts
  • off sour cream
  • moldy cheese
  • human hair
  • corn cobs
  • pistachio and peanut shells
  • twisty ties around chard gone bad
  • wormy apple fragments

I sometimes recognized the harder substances (corn cobs, shells, bones), but everything else gets turned into clean smelling brown dirt/vermicompost.

1 comment August 26th, 2008

How I got started with worms

I remember strolling through a used bookstore and picking up a copy of ‘Worms Eat My Garbage’, by Mary Appelhoff, about 3 years ago. I think that sparked my interest in keeping worms. From there, I built a 2×2 worm box with a friend (who had power tools, thank goodness), and I have been keeping worms in one form or another ever since.

I think worms appeal to me because they were more interesting than a mere compost pile (as well as more mobile, a consideration for a renter), but very low commitment. Also, removing organic matter from landfills is an easy way to help the environment.

After building that worm box, I ordered worms from Mary’s company–1 pound was plenty. I tried to find them locally, but the suggestions in her book (sports stores, gardening centers) didn’t have any redworms.

The worms arrived in a small cardboard box via the mail one day. I dumped them into the box with some shredded paper for bedding. I was living in a basement apartment and had plenty of room. I placed food scraps in the box and never noticed it smelling. This continued for about a year, and then I moved to a garden level condo that was a bit less roomy. I kept the box in the condo until both my girlfriend and a friend who visited commented on the odor. As I remember it, the place did smell a bit citrusy (I was on an orange kick at the time).

So, I moved the box outside. This worked fine until winter. The box was uninsulated (just covered with a black plastic sheet), but as long as the temps didn’t get too low, the worms seemed fine (they heated up in the sun, and hid in the bedding. They did slow down eating quite a bit. Then we got a cold snap–a string of 0 degree days–the bedding froze solid (and all the worms died died, needless to say).

I proceeded to throw my organic matter in the garbage the rest of the winter. I’d forgotten what a hassle it was, dealing with the smell of the garbage and having to take it out regularly. So, when spring came, I ordered more worms from Mary’s company, and fed them all summer and fall. When winter rolled around again, I was afraid of them freezing again. I also didn’t want them smelling in my mouse, so I just dumped the contents of the entire worm bin into my compost bin. (It’s not a rotating bin, it’s connected to the ground.)

This turned out to be the right solution for me. I have a fenced in yard in the city, so I’m not worried about racoons or bears. I also put chicken wire underneath my compost bin to prevent animals from burrowing up into it (apparently moles like worms). My worms retreat into warm parts of the pile when it’s cold, and produce great compost. I never replace the bedding, I just open up the bottom of the compost bin and shovel out compost and put more bedding on top.

I’ve never heard complaints about the smell (I do make sure there’s plenty of leaves or other carbon sources) and I don’t have to flip it. It is a bit of a hassle in the winter but 1-2 trips a week out to the compost bin beats living with stinky trash. The compost bin method gives the worms plenty of room to multiply and I’ve actually been able to give a quart or two of worms out to other people.

Add comment August 16th, 2008

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